Archive for April, 2010
Leaking overflow pipe from boiler?
Boiler Type : Redring Dual Heat (DH12U) (Electric combi)
Boiler Parts : Main boiler cylinder, Pressure reducing valve 2.1 bar, expansion vessel with ball cock (central heating), potable expansion bottle (charged to 2.1 bar), central heating pump, PRV (CH), other check valves.
Right, I have identified why my central heating expansion tank is gaining water and then overflowing to the garden, but I am at a loss as what to do to fix it! Instead of the central heating drawing cold water from the expansion tank it is actually overheating the water and that is boiling into the feed line (could see heat vapour entering tank at feed line when I shone a torch it the tank + feed line is very hot). I have checked the ballcock valve in the tank and its fine, I have replaced the pressure reducing valve, potable expansion bottle, thermistat and DHW mixing valve, but all to no avail. The boiler doesnt seem to have any controls to adjust the pressure and I have tried every possible setting on the CH mixing valve as well. I have bled all the radiators every time I dumped the water for repairs then refilled. Arghhh!!! Does anyone else own one of these boilers or had any similar problems with them?? I really need to get this fixed as my neighbours are starting to get pi**ed off
Help,
Greg.
Thanks for your answer Turdy, when you say ‘burst calorifier’ do you mean inside the actual boiler itself? I forgot to mention that the expansion tank for the central heating is only acting as a cold water top up for the CH. This boiler is constantly on and gives constant hot tap water and the CH fires when called for with room stat. when I turn off the mains water it continues to overheat the water even when the central heating is off, and this is the problem theres to much heat in the system and its going to the nearest avalible exit at the expansion tank.When I turn the boiler off at the mains the problem desists. Ive just checked all the fuses on the Temp PCB but they are fine and i recently fitted a new ‘over temp cutout’ switch with copper probe thinking this would cure the problem, but it didnt. link to the boiler from hell:
http://www.applied-energy.com/spareparts/brand/diagram.php?id=253&searchbrand=redring
The only components that are on the heating side are the pump,CH mixing valve and expansion tank.All the other components are for the mains pressure hot water.
If the overflow from the expansion tank is running but the ball valve is fine then you could be looking at a burst calorifier.The calorifier transfers the heat from the central heating tank to the mains water.As the mains water is at a higher pressure than the central heating water in the tank,the mains water will force itself out at any weak point.
Shut the mains off to the hot water supply and bail out some of the water in the expansion tank.If the water level is stable,but starts to rise when the mains water to the pressure reducing valve is turned back on then that is the problem and a new tank will be required.
What will happen if a boiler which is burning Natural Gas is converted to LPG diluted with air?
It is being proposed that the natural gas fired boiler be converted to LPG, for the sake of wobe’s index LPG will be mixed with air, how will the combustion process effected?
As long as you change your gas orifice, your boiler should work just fine.
Apart from wood, what other fuels can you burn on a closed stove with back boiler?
After my horrendous winter gas bill I’m seeking to cut heating costs. I’d prefer some kind of fire that I can burn my rubbish on instead of sending it to the tip.
smokeless fuel, some types of coal and to start it you can use all your old newspapers and cardboard.